Tampa Area Guide to: BEACHES & BEACH PARKS

Tampa Area Guide to:

BEACHES & BEACH PARKS

In all likelihood, I will come to regret publishing some of this information, but it's the truth, so publish I must.  The reason I might regret it some day is because every time you publish the name and location of a little-known, quaint local spot, you will slowly see it fill up with people, and then you have to put your thinking cap back on and go find yourself a new local spot.  I could try to prevent this from happening, but I'm starting to accept it as just part of the Circle of Life when you live in a sought-after, touristy spot.

Clearwater Beach 
This is already a jam-packed area during high season, but even locals feel like it's worth the hassle of getting in and out.  Clearwater Beach is fun, whether you're having a day in the water with your kids, or a night out with your pals, there is something to appeal to just about everyone's desire for fun happenings. Be sure to visit Pier 60 as the sun goes down to see all the notable characters and artisan souvenirs. 

The causeway ("that big bridge thing" for non-Floridians) can take an hour to cross during peak season, so do yourself a big favor, and see if you can take the water taxi at 100 Drew St, Clearwater, FL 33755.  It is possible to park for free in this area, and even the pay-to-park lots on the mainland here are much cheaper than anything you will find out on the small island of Clearwater Beach.  This is a tip that could really save you a lot of stress and hassle, so research it a bit before you go.

See www.clearwaterferry.com for rates & schedules.

Sunset Park

1800 Gulf Rd, Tarpon Springs, FL 34689
http://www.ctsfl.us/sunset%20bch.htm

Free to park, a very low-key beach full of locals.  There is a restroom here, which is typically open whenever the park is open.  Since it is a Tarpon City Park, it may not be open on all holidays.  We recently drove by the gate on July 4th, 2018 and the park was closed. Not sure if it was for the holiday, or for some other reason, like maintenance.  Swimming may be limited at low tide, but wading and sunning are always fun here.  The beach itself is nice and has plenty of sand to lie out on and soak up the sun.
I only have one request:  If you're going to come to Sunset Beach, please, please please do your best to help maintain the low-key, quiet local atmosphere of this hidden gem.  Don't crank your music too loud, and pick up after yourself before you leave, and we can all go on feeling like it's still a hidden spot.

Sunset Beach, Tarpon Springs, Florida

Fred Howard Park

1700 Sunset Dr, Tarpon Springs, FL 34689

Parking is free on the mainland, or $5 on the causeway or the beach ($5 lets you park all day).  Rent a paddleboard or a kayak, or sun bathe.  White(ish) sand, and not usually very crowded.  The very North side of the island always has the fewest people if you want to sun and read your book. Plan to come at high tide if you want to swim.  At the peak of high tide, this place can be a sea safari, you will glide over the wildlife, but still be very close to the action, maybe 4 to 5 ft above the sea floor.  Of course, make sure to bring a dive flag.  Venture out past the sandy area near shore, into the seaweed forests, and you are likely to see multiple types of crabs, sting rays, mullet and other fish, horseshoe crabs, and scallops.  I have yet to see any sharks at this particular beach, but don't rule it out.

                               

Jay B. Starkey Wilderness Park

10500 Wilderness Park Blvd, New Port Richey, FL 34655

A little further out, but worth the drive if you want to do a long hike or bike.  There's no beach here, but it's a different flavor, all its own.  Take lots of water, there is none available in the park.  Free to park.  The main feature here is a long, straight strip of pavement, about 13 miles long, which connects to the Suncoast Trail at the far end.  Free to park.

Tortoise is expected, and close-up deer sightings are common.  We have also seen numerous armadillo, raccoon, alligators, rattlesnakes and hawks on the trail.  Last week, a fellow bicycler said he'd just seen a baby bear.  We pressed ahead and did not see any bears.

There are off-pavement opportunities to hike and bike, though we have not explored them as much as we have the main trail.  

NEXT UP: 
Tampa Area Guide to:  RESTAURANTS

Dear Reader,

Hi.  Do you like the posts you find here?  I am available for freelance writing and SEO content creation.

Email me at HelpHalHelpYou@gmx.com

Restaurant Review: New England's Ale House Grille in Palm Harbor, FL

   
We've been in the area for well over a year now, but we had not stopped in yet, mostly due to our not being especially "burger people," though I am very much a "beer guy."  We were having one of those rare days when the stars all aligned and it seemed like the time to make our way to a good burger.  I initially heard about the Ale House by word of mouth from some long-time Palm Harbor locals, who said that the location had changed hands, was under new management and the new owners had turned it into a very pleasant eatery.  That will probably go down as the understatement of the year.  Saying the Ale House is a pleasant eatery is like saying Michael Jackson was a good dancer.

Overall:  5.0/5.0

How to Get There:


     If you're in Clearwater, just drive north through Dunedin on Alt-19.  You will see the Ale House on your left before you get to Tarpon Springs, just a few streets past Alderman Road.  According to estimates, it should take about 25 minutes to get there from Clearwater Beach, assuming there's no traffic (LOL).

     Price ($ - $$$):  __$__  Two burgers, a kids meal, and a couple adult drinks were right around $50.  If you want anything cheaper than that, you should consider a drive-thru window.

"Lower Deck"

     Ambiance:  Located on the west side of Alt-19, between Alderman and Klosterman, the Ale House is pretty hard to miss as you motor along.  In keeping with the theme of the Florida location, ample outdoor seating is available.  The "upper deck" is non-smoking and the "lower deck," or patio is the only seating area where smoking is permitted.  This is also where you will find a couple yard games, like bean bag toss.  If you are extremely sensitive to smoke, I recommend you go ahead and sit indoors.  The smell on the upper deck is not strong at all, but it is there if you are extremely picky about second-hand smoke.  Once inside, all you will smell is delicious food and drink, there is no smoke smell whatsoever.
     The decor of Bostonian sports memorabilia and 5 or 6 flat screens around the room do give the place a bit of a "man cave" feel, but the layout is very open, the front of house being just one large room, and it is well-lit with natural and electric lighting.  It's clean, too, and smells fresh, not sour like some bars will.  I don't know what their housekeeping secret is, but it may be just as simple as turning on the lights so they can make sure everything is sanitary.

     If you came to the Ale House with the idea that they would have beer, then your heart will warm when you see the broad deck behind the bar, 28 beers, 1 mead and a kombucha, all on draught.  About a half-dozen I recognized as local brews, part of the craft beer phenomenon we are so lucky to enjoy in the Tampa area.  There are maybe a half-dozen or more bottled beers, if that is your preference.  I should have been more adventurous, I know, but I just can't say no to a Cigar City Jai Alai on draught, and so that became round one.  Dessert was the mead by Black Fox Meadery down the street in Palm Harbor.  Mead is a very sweet brew, probably predating beer, made from fermented honey.  It is sweet, but this one was not as sweet as some I've had, it was definitely an adult beverage.  They serve mead at least two different ways here, but I opted to enjoy mine straight up.  It came slightly chilled with a single fresh blueberry.  It would have paired well with dessert, but for me it made a satisfying end to an otherwise exemplary meal.
     Also of note was our server Lauryn's extensive knowledge and familiarity with the ample beer selection.  So often I visit a bar with an emphasis on beers but the servers are clueless.  I don't know if they do blindfolded pop quizzes here or anything, but it was obvious she knew her way around the taps from end to end.  She also seemed pretty aware of the local brewing scene, especially close to Palm Harbor.  I'm sure someone reading this has had the experience of going somewhere with 50 taps or more that hypes up their beer selection and then you order something fairly run of the mill like a Hoegaarden and the server's eyes go blank and you have to point to it on the beer list.  This is not going to happen at the Ale House, they actually know beer.

Traditional Burger

    Food:  Now let me tell you about the burgers.  The Traditional Burger, with garlic herb butter, lettuce, tomato and red onion is basically the standard by which all burgers should be measured.  If your crazy Uncle Bob, the family barbecue master, ever made  you a hamburger before he started drinking hard on the Fourth of July, then you have had a burger on this level of bold, manly meatiness, the kind of burger that could only be attempted by a man who has dodged sniper fire in a foreign theater of war, or started a car with a hand crank.  If you are a no-nonsense burger lover, this perfectly-seasoned and cooked black Angus, paired with crunchy lettuce and onion on a toasty bun will satisfy you profoundly, and bacon and cheese are available as add-ons.  Barbecuing Uncle Bob would approve of this burger and so will you.

Orchard Burger

     The Orchard Burger was something different altogether, and it left me wondering if I hadn't been missing out on something really important all my life.  Maybe I'm just not the most creative guy around (really, I'm not), but whoever first got the idea to put bacon, maple syrup, a slice of grilled Granny Smith apple and cheddar cheese between two hamburger buns is nothing short of a genius and has my undying admiration.  I admit I was wary of the grilled apple, but decided I should pay the chef his due and try the burger as a package, as it was intended.  Boy, was that ever the right decision!  To be honest, the apple was not a flavor that stood out at all while I ate the burger, it played a supporting role for the maple syrup and bacon, and didn't really draw a lot of attention to itself.  What did play out was this sort of symphony where sweet was on one side and savory was on the other, and they took turns playing solos, duets and overtures with each other.  Bacon is a big deal these days, and rightfully so.  What I noticed most was its ability to play for both teams, sometimes chiming in on the sweet side, and sometimes supporting the savory black Angus patty.  It all served to create an incredible burger with a bit of a pancake aftertaste, and that combined with the taste of the bacon reminded me of Dad's camp  house breakfast.  It's not often a simple meal can take you back to childhood memories of Saturday mornings, cartoons on TV and Dad cooking bacon and toast in the kitchen, but that is how the Orchard Burger played out.  This is a ride I will be getting back in line for.
     The rest of the menu bears further investigation, as the Ale House has so much more to offer than beer and burgers.  Starters that caught my eye were the shrimp 'n grits, a delicacy from the Carolinas, and the Rhode Island style calamari.  Entrees I have added to my list to try next time are the flank steak with Parmesan fries, and the fish 'n chips with coleslaw.  There are 10 different sandwiches and wraps to choose from, and classic sides like mac 'n cheese and sweet potato fries.  If you work around Palm Harbor, you should consider them for a weekday lunch with the office crew.  One of these days I want to come back and try the New England clam "chowdah," something tells me they know how to make a decent chowder here.

     It's also worth mentioning that my small, picky eater was thoroughly satisfied with the kids menu, and her hardest decision of the day was choosing between the grilled chicken sliders and the mac 'n cheese.  The sliders disappeared in record time, as did the side of fruit, and I couldn't even get a picture.  The dessert menu looks like it's worth a try, even if I did have mine in a glass this time.  I'll have to inquire if the apple pie is made in house before I decide.
     Overall: 5.0/5.0:  With a name like New England's Ale House Grille over the door, one expects taps and a bar, and they have this in spades.  In my book, everything after that was just a bonus.  Upon arrival, not a single server passed us without a smile, a warm welcome and letting us know we could sit wherever we like.  Soon we were seated at a bar-height table (there are normal-height booths as well), next to a big picture window overlooking the nearby Alt-19.  With the friendliness of the staff, the relaxed vibe of the patrons, the comfy seat and the unassuming hominess of the sports bar decor, for a moment I felt like Norm when he would walk into Cheers and everyone would shout his name.  My kid soon lost herself in the complimentary tablets available at the tables, my wife started studying up about the black Angus burgers, and I was absorbed in the draught list.  Honestly I can think of no place I'd rather spend a Saturday afternoon drinking a beer and tackling some wings with my friends.  The fact that the food is out of this world really puts the Ale House into a category of it's own.  I wouldn't call it fine dining, there's nothing stuffy or expensive about it, it's just a next-level perfection of American bar food, with a regional flair from the Northeast.
     They do keep a full calendar, which you can find online here just click the "Specials" tab when you get to their home page.  Monday's $5 chef's burger and Friday's live music starting at 6pm are both on my To Do list.
     With all the facts and info out of the way I can really stop to tell you how I feel about the place.  I do not know the owners, nor do I know the history of the establishment, but I can say from experience, it feels like someone's lifelong dream.  You can feel it the minute you make contact with the seat:  this is no fast food chain with 15 minute seats and you are not a dollar sign to be turned over.  Someone put this seat here and they wanted you to be comfortable and enjoy yourself.  You are a valued customer and a welcome guest.  If I were picking a place to nurse a beer for a while, this is at the top of my list in Pinellas County.  In short, this is the kind of local business we love to see, the kind we'd love to see more of, the kind of business that we as a community should support through patronage and word of mouth advertising.  Give them a try if you're up this way, I know you'll be happy you did.

Annata: Probably Worth the Wait

(far right)

Restaurant Review:  Annata in St. Petersburg, Florida

Overall:  4.0/5.0

How to Get There:


Price: ($ - $$$): __$$__ 
     While this isn't even close to the most expensive place in town, it is well beyond the range of "cheap eats."  Without going too crazy with drinks and appetizers, you're probably looking at $80 to $90 for a couple to have a really nice dinner.  If your intention is to drink heavily with dinner, you could easily spend a lot more.

Poor iPhone needs to turn on the flash.

Ambiance:
     We visited Annata recently on a Saturday evening, a day and time in this part of St. Petersburg which seems to hold some magical charm for bringing people together to mingle outdoors.  As devout foodies, we did a good bit of online research beforehand, rifling through all the usual review websites, and then we went out and fully explored the area on foot, ultimately allowing our noses to make the final decision.  We arrived pretty early for Beach Drive and we were seated promptly.  Decor is what I would call "modern luxurious," meaning lots of glass and stainless steel, but plenty of wood in the right places to convey warmth.  I don't know who designed the interior, but it was a professional, not a hobbyist.  It's very possible I'm not as trendy as I used to be, but the lighting seemed very dim for a restaurant, perhaps more suited to a nightclub, or a hookah bar in Morocco.  In any event, I could barely see the person across the table from me, and I'm very fond of looking at her.  And you can call me crazy, but I like to see what I'm eating.
   
     The waiter was prompt, arriving at our table within minutes, recounting the specials and producing two of what surely must be flower vases.  To my astonishment he carefully filled the vases with drinking water, an arrangement which struck me as cumbersome the moment I saw it.  We placed our order, and the establishment soon filled to capacity over the next few minutes as the Saturday night rush, an upscale crowd, queued up and quietly drifted into their seats.
   
     From my chair I could see the window to the kitchen slowly filling with plates and I wondered "where must all the servers be to let the food sit like that?"  I scanned the room to find that nearly every server in the dining room was completely engrossed in the arduous task of filling the tiny mouths of these little drinking vases with water.  In truth I should have timed how long it takes to serve water to just one table here, to make sure I do not exaggerate.  Even more unfortunate is the rate at which one may empty these tall, slender drinking vases.  At one point I kept our waiter busy just filling my water glass for three full minutes, I was thirsty and I can drink faster than the vases can be filled.  Eventually everyone had water, and the appetizers left the window.  Thankfully ours was supposed to be cold, or perhaps leaving a plate in the window is some strange French, open-air aging method for cheese and crackers.

Menu:
     There's no kids' menu here.  Given the atmosphere and target audience, I don't subtract any points for that.  Annata is pretty grown-up, and a kids' menu would be very out of place.  The dinner menu is not overdone.  This is a small restaurant with a correspondingly small kitchen, and the fact that they don't try to offer more options than they can handle is a relief to see.  There is a little something for everybody, but it's all on one concise page.  CLICK HERE to see for yourself.

Appetizer:
     What we ordered for starters is called a "pick three" and I was soon wishing I would have opted for a "pick five," the cheese, meat and crackers go so well here.  We ordered prosciutto, chorizo,  and a raw tomme cheese from Georgia, our neighbor to the north.  In addition to the three items we selected, I was pleasantly surprised to see a few extras:  sliced, dried apricots, honey, bread, some small crackers and a whimsical sprinkling of clover.  The mix of sweet and savory found on this one small cheese board can only be described as blissful.  Soon we were conversing, laughing, trying different flavor combinations.  We enjoyed and savored this until there wasn't a morsel left that was big enough to tempt a gnat.

Main Course:    
     Once the first dish was whisked away, we chatted and sipped our beverages.  Annata is very big on wine, they are even called "Annata Restaurant & Wine Bar."  The selection by the bottle or by the glass is staggering, and any bacchanalian would be completely at home here.  They also have a small selection of fine brews on draught, and I chose a lively local brew called Jai Alai by the Cigar City Brewery in Tampa.  Jai Alai is named for the intense game we call handball, first invented in Northern Spain, and this beer is just as active.  A sub-tropical IPA, it dashes back and forth across the palate, refreshing, leaving pleasureful traces of sweet, sour citrus and bitter hops.  As far as beers go, you would likely have to abandon the Western Hemisphere entirely to find something finer or more complex.  While wine at Annata is served in conventional wine glasses and water is served in fancy flower vases, beer here is relegated to jelly jars.  Now, while I do embrace my southern heritage and I am not afraid of a Mason jar in any way, it did feel off-putting to be served in a jar at this location.  This is a fine-dining establishment with super-modern decor, located in some of the trendiest real estate in St. Petersburg.  As I looked around I could spy nothing that would be considered quaint or kitschy, everything was thoroughly modern and well-appointed, luxurious even.  The only way I can interpret this decision on the part of Annata's management is that while they do serve beer in order to cater a little to everyone, if you are uncouth enough to order beer at Annata, they will serve it up to you in the most redneck way possible, as if they were handing you a dunce cap and sending you to the corner for time out.  Basically they're saying that everyone else here is dining at Annata Restaurant & Wine Bar, but your table is now a honky-tonk BBQ joint...because it has beer on it.

Pork Shoulder

   
     When the entrees arrived I had to chuckle a little at the portion size, but they already knew by the Mason jar of beer beside me that I was going to have such an outburst when I was presented with these "haute cuisine," toddler-sized portions.  You see, the entrees are on the pricey end, but the portions are minuscule, the kind of thing you look at to admire, something to be appreciated with the eyes and nose, not something to eat.  I ordered the pork shoulder, and as a person who has actually seen the shoulder on a live pig, it was humorous to see 4 or 5 ounces of pork and a dab of mustard in the middle of a plate and call it "pork shoulder".  It was expertly prepared, sweet and savory at the same time, and paired with the stone-ground mustard beneath it, it was a real treat, the mustard serving as a sort of catalyst and adding tang to the overall flavor landscape.
   
     The grouper was well-seasoned, also a small portion, though not so humorously small as the pork.  The "farro tabuleh" underneath the grouper was a bit of a surprise; the word "tabuleh" typically conjures images of tomato and parsley, but this tabuleh was primarily a pile of whole grain.  Normally on a low-carb regimen, I readjusted my definition of tabuleh and enjoyed it to the last grain.
   
Dessert:
     This area is packed with options, we had to go for a walk and discover dessert down the street.  By the end of dinner the small place was packed, there was not a seat to be had, either inside or out.  Service slowed considerably, as if Saturday night on St. Petersburg's trendiest strip had somehow taken them by surprise, or staff had unexpectedly called off work.  While the waiter did bring my check quickly enough,  I waited and waited for him to come take my cash.  I was half way through scripting a fake heart attack on the floor when he finally came back to take my money.  I'm usually a pretty patient customer as I have been on the other side of the transaction before.  I don't remember the last time I started plotting to fake a heart attack on  a restaurant floor, or anywhere else, for that matter.  It took at least 10 minutes to decide to plan the attack, and I was about 5 minutes into the planning phase before he came and took the cover.  Five more minutes of planning and another 5 minutes of self-doubt in my ability to pull off such a stunt and I assure you a dozen patrons would have been dialing for an ambulance before I could hand the cover to the server.
   
Overall:
     It was a pleasant experience, if a bit outside my middle-class, middle-American comfort zone, and I'm giving them a solid 4.0/5.0 on my own scale.  Fortunately we did research the place online before we went, and it is in a pretty high-brow locale, so the comical "made for TV" portion sizes and myopic, über-foodie stuffiness were not a total surprise at the door.  Service was only slow when they were totally slammed and the rest of the time it was prompt and courteous.  I really do think they would see a revenue increase if they ditched the pointless water glasses and went with something more utilitarian.  So now for the truth or consequences:

1)  Would I recommend the place?  Yes, with the above caveats.  While Florida is a land abundantly blessed with many things, we do tend to lack fine dining on a lot of our beaches.  This is a bit of a drive from some of the beach areas, but if you're staying in the southern half of Pinellas County, it is an attractive option, especially if you're celebrating something and you'd like to go somewhere fancier than burgers at the beach.
2)  Would I go back?  Yes again, but I will not accept beer in a jar.  It's not a barbecue joint, so the jar is purposely out of place, either serve me beer with respect, or take it off the menu, don't treat me like the kid who has to sit in the corner at school.  And besides, even the most poorly-educated patron you could find will know that the only beverage you can properly and politely serve in a Mason jar is moonshine.

Restaurant Review: Happy Fish in Tampa, Florida

Overall:  4.5/5.0

How to Get There:


     It usually takes us about an hour to get to Happy Fish from our side of town, but it's a ritual we complete about every other week.  As I publish this article, they rank #6 on Trip Advisor out of all restaurants in Tampa, Florida, quite the accomplishment for a small restaurateur family.  We have been to many of the local Peruvian restaurants and cevicherías around town, but I'm going to tell you if you like seafood, Happy Fish is king.  Yes, most of the menu is really good, you have to give them their due, this is a family place and it shows that they put their heart and soul into the food, but if you really want to have a new restaurant addiction in this town, hear me now: go with the seafood.  More on that later.
      Price ($ - $$$):    $     Dinner for two adults and one kid is pretty much never over $50 unless we really overdo it on drinks.  $ per value, this place is tops, especially in an area where a person can easily go and overpay for mediocre food with a waterfront view.  Imported Peruvian longnecks are only $3.50, and the average seafood entree is about $14.00.  Tampa can be a pretty touristy place, but when you get tired of sandy beach food and you want something hearty and tasty, load up the rental car and make a trip over to the north side of town.  Forget the waterfront if it's food you crave; go eat something awesome, you won't be sorry.
     Ambiance:  Since their recent remodel, this place is more inviting than ever.  Family owned and operated, Happy Fish (click here for link) voted in their own favor by investing in a dining room that is comfortable while unassuming, warm but not cloying.  The murals were also completely redone in the remodel and you will have plenty of Peruvian vistas to entertain you while you dine.  On Saturdays and Sundays there is live music, usually of the Peruvian style called criolla, but we have heard some Caribbean music as well.  On Sundays it starts and ends early, from about 2 pm until 6 or 7, but on Saturday expect it to go a good bit later, perhaps until 10.  There are also 4 flatscreens throughout the room, displaying always 4 different programs, anything from the NFL to South American news.  Thankfully they are kept muted and with closed captions for those who are interested in watching.  Service is always friendly, so don't hesitate to call if you have questions, and don't worry if they answer the phone in Spanish, everybody down there speaks English, too and they will quickly switch over for you. 

     From the outside, nestled in the corner of a shopping center between a Winn-Dixie and a beauty supply store, this is without exaggeration a hole in the wall, but when you walk inside you will be pleasantly surprised by so much more than you expected from the storefront.  There's not really a hostess stand, so just seat yourself and someone will attend you shortly.  Don't be surprised if Kevin the owner comes by your table to greet you and make sure everything is excellent.  If anything is out of place, do let him know and he will make it right.
     Menu (click for link):  As a family man, I'm always on the lookout for a kid's menu, even a small consideration, but I'm sad to say there isn't one here, nor are there many pictures in the menu.  If you have a small, picky eater with you, I recommend salchipapa, cut hot dogs over some of the best French fries you've ever put in your mouth (they literally invented potatoes in Peru).  With a dash of  ketchup, your small, picky eater will devour this.
     The menu is a little large, but it's not off-putting.  They handle it quite well, even at full capacity, as many of the dishes offered are classic Peruvian fare, the kind of comfort food you grow up eating down there, that you would learn how to make from Grandma.
     Appetizer:  For an appetizer, you will probably be fine with the complimentary tequeños, which is a sort of a fried, crunchy flat noodle with about a medium-spicy dipping sauce on the side.  If you're hungrier than that I would steer you toward the anticucho, a grilled, marinated kebab of beef heart.  It's not as good as some that I've had in Peru, but it's as good as any I've had anywhere in the US.  I know the idea of eating heart is probably strange for some, but going to Happy Fish is the next best thing to international travel; I suggest you roll with it, have a Peruvian beer and enjoy it to the fullest.  If nothing else it will make great watercooler conversation on Monday.  Ceviche also makes a great appetizer to share with a few people, but we usually have it as one of our shared entrees. 


     Main Course: Sometimes 

Jalea

our order will vary a bit, especially if with friends, but our go-to meal down here starts with jalea, a battered and deep-fried delight piled high with shrimp, calamari, and chunks of fish, with a couple pieces of fried yuca and mussels on the side.  On top is a serving of cool, thinly-sliced onion and diced tomato marinated in lemon juice.  To get the most out of the experience, make sure you pair each bite of fried seafood with a bit of the marinated onion and tomato, they go great together, like a dash of vinegar with fish and chips.  The shrimp are always fried in such a way that the tails are crunchy and will melt in your mouth.  Word to the wise, jalea is finger food, so be prepared to roll up your sleeves and get intimate with it.
    

Stock image from their website.

Our other favorite entree is the house ceviche, and we are fond of the mixto variety, preferring the mixture of fish, shrimp and octopus.  The fish ceviche is prepared and seasoned just as expertly, it just doesn't have the variety of seafood.  Your ceviche will come with some puffed corn (canchita) on the side, and a slice of cool sweet potato.  If you order your ceviche spicy, save the sweet potato to cool off at the end.  We order ours spicy, but I should warn you that it is spicy.  They will gladly prepare yours with no spice, medium spice, or spicy.  The sliced onions sprinkled on top are again something out of Grandma's secret cookbook, it takes quite some dedication and experience to get your onions seasoned, marinated in lemon juice and crunchy, all at the same time.  In fact, it's a great time to mention that this is one of the things I love most about Happy Fish:  they are firmly grounded in authentic Peruvian cuisine.  Unlike some really high-dollar Peruvian places, they don't change things out of boredom, but when something really works, like what I'm sure is Grandma's ceviche recipe from the Old Country, the proprietors here are smart enough to know that the best ceviche this side of Lima doesn't need any changes.  True art is as much about what you don't paint as it is about what you do, and there lies the true artistry of Happy Fish:  when they get it perfect, they don't keep changing it.
     Another highlight from the seafood menu is the arroz con mariscos, a dish of yellow rice, calamari, octopus, shrimp and mussels.  A steaming plate of saffron, rice, seafood and heaven, this dish typically serves two, in my opinion.  
     Dessert:  Unlike a lot of places, the desserts here actually are worth the calories.  My two favorites are the picarones and the tres leches cake.  Picarones are freshly-fried doughnuts, drizzled in sweet syrup, these delights will still be hot and doughy inside, crunchy on the outside, when they reach your table.  The tres leches cake is pretty much what you would expect of a good one, a wet, spongy cake with plenty of condensed milk, right on the border of too sweet.  The portion size of the cake is small, so do enjoy a little indulgence.   
     Overall:  4.5/5.0:  The lack of a kids' menu is frustrating, but not a major detraction.  I do like to let my child eat something she likes when we are out.  She has a major thing for mac n' cheese, which is almost completely banned at my house, so she would like the place more if there were some options like that.  
     The neighborhood is not trendy.  Beyond that, it's borderline sketchy.  I'm used to navigating some pretty rough places, so again, it's not a major reason to mark the place down, but it does bear mention.  If you're not familiar with the area I'd estimate it's as safe as the area around the Raymond James Stadium.
     This place really shines with seafood and I emphasize that a lot.  We have had some non-seafood dishes here and most have been excellent.  For those of us who love Peruvian food, I should note:   I'm pretty sure their aji amarillo (yellow Peruvian chili pepper) is fresh, so if you're like me and you're used to getting your aji amarillo out of a jar, you may want to steer clear of the papa la huancaína.  I think if you are accustomed to a little higher-qualility Peruvian cuisine, this will not be the curve ball for you that it was for me.  It wasn't a big deal, but it did lead us to lean almost entirely on the ample seafood menu from then on.  "Fish" is in the name of the restaurant, so probably I'm the foolish one for coming in there and ordering cheesy potatoes, and I really think I have to blame my own palate for the mix-up. 
     We have been here many times over the last couple years that we have lived in the Tampa area, and in that time the consistency of the back of house has been a thing of beauty, the kind of accomplishment that brings a tear to the eye of any true foodie.  A lot of restaurants can get lucky sometime and have a good day where they send some good food out the window and make a few happy customers.  The fact that Happy Fish has amazed us time after time, not a few times, but a few dozen times over the course of a couple years, really speaks volumes about the skill, dedication and passion to be found in this kitchen.  Whatever they pay the chefs here, it's money well-spent. 

About me - A Little Bit Country

     I grew up in the Midwest, 6 miles outside a town of 5,000 people.  My daily chores involved tending cows and chickens, and my pastimes included hunting and fishing to put a little extra meat on the table.  My father and I never spent time playing catch, we mended fences together on weekends.  As isolated as that sounds, I had one parent from Illinois and one from Georgia, so travel for me has always meant a cherished break from a monotonous routine, even at an early age.  There's never been a day in my life when I didn't look forward to a road trip or a flight, because at the end of that long road waited Grandma and pecan pie, who would mind driving for that?

 

     At age 14 I began studying Spanish and at 16 I got to spend a semester abroad in Costa Rica.  This experience was life-changing in so many ways, broadening my horizons like never before.  My host family and school friends were really great about watching out for me, helping me learn Spanish, and showing me around their beautiful country.  

Host brothers and me.
1998-2012

From mountain to forest and coast, I saw a little of everything there, I even stood in a spot once where we could see the Atlantic and the Pacific Oceans at the same time.  Suddenly the world was accessible, a real thing to be breathed and touched, not just read about in a book, and the Spanish-speaking world was now open to me, a whole new world full of stories and human interactions that no longer needed subtitles.

Machu Picchu in the background

     My wife and I both love to see the world and we are probably happiest when navigating through some foreign country neither of us has seen before.  Together we've been to Aruba, Costa Rica, Honduras, Peru, and a few off-the-beaten-path destinations in the US.  Europe and Asia are in our sights, we're already planning visits.  We are also avid foodies, so trying all the local cuisine is always on our list of stuff to do, although neither of us is into eating bugs.  Short of that, we'll probably try anything once.  Guinea pig, anyone?
     I hope you enjoy this blog.  It's not me trying to act like an expert about anything, it's just my hope to share some of the experiences we've had, the good and the bad.  I'll tell you about the times I took the long way around so hopefully you can learn from my mistakes.  If there's anything you feel like I'm missing, please do comment or email me at HelpHalHelpYou@gmx.com .

Clearwater Beach, Florida

Overview

      When people talk about Clearwater Beach (CWB), they refer to an island in the Gulf of Mexico that lies just west of Clearwater, Florida.  Accessible by two different causeways or by boat, Clearwater Beach is one of the most popular tourist attractions in Pinellas County.  The main causeway ends at a roundabout surrounded by tourist attractions, such as parasailing, boat tours and Pier 60.  CWB is an active place, with a constant buzz of locals and tourists passing up and down Mandalay Avenue. This main strip runs the length of the island, connecting restaurants, shops, hotels, and beaches.  If you're outgoing, or an avid people watcher, then this is the place for you.
     If you take South Gulfview Boulevard to the south and follow it around, you will cross the other causeway which takes you over to Sand Key.  Sand Key at its north end has much of the energy and tourism of CWB, in fact most consider this just sort of "Clearwater Beach Part II", but in my opinion it's generally less crowded than CWB.  As you move south down Sand Key, you encounter other beaches and townships, from Belleair Shores to Madeira Beach.  Consider all these beaches to be at your fingertips at this point, as they are just a short drive from each other. 

Where to Stay

     Where you stay depends on your budget and your taste.  If you like lots of people, white sand beaches, and a poppin' atmosphere that may party on into the night, then I would recommend one of the many hotels right on Clearwater Beach.  The ubiquitous Hilton would be a good option, as it is right next to Pier 60, has waterfront and beach access to the west, and faces Mandalay Avenue to the east.  As you can see from the video, even in early December, the sun is shining and park improvements march ahead in preparation for the coming tourist season.

 

     If you want the same "white sugar" beaches that you would find on Clearwater Beach, but perhaps without quite so much of the unique flavor of Clearwater, the resorts on the north side of Sand Key are well situated.  While you won't have as many options for restaurants and bars beyond the hotels and resorts there, you won't have quite the crowd either, and the crowd that is there tends to be a little quieter (think "picnic at the beach with a couple small children making sand castles").  Sand Key Park is right here, and it's a great place to catch a soak.

 

Eats    

Columbia's waterfront view.

     If you do get to Sand Key, go hungry and make a stop at Columbia Restaurant (click the link for more info), as this is the best place to eat for miles around.  If you like Latin food, you'll adore this place.  We have been several times and they have never failed to stun us.  As sort of "new locals" to the area, this is one of the places we take visiting friends and family if we want to leave them with a good impression of the area.  The waterfront dining in the rear of the building will wow you with a miles-wide view of Belleair across the bay, while the impeccable staff astounds you with Columbia's take on dishes like paella, coca de langosta, "el cubano completo", and several ways to eat the local grouper.  See the PDF of their menu for yourself here.This is one of those rarest of restaurants where you can walk in feeling kind of blue and you will still probably leave on cloud 9.  Do save room for the key lime pie, it's the best in Florida and one of the very few that is all natural, without preservatives or artificial colors.  This is a family-owned restaurant that has been in business for 110 years, and once you eat there you will know why I believe they'll be around for at least that much longer.  Out of all the restaurants we have tried in this area, Columbia takes the grand prize.  Dine a little early (5 to 6 pm) if you want to get a parking spot, or consider using the valet service if you choose to dine later, as the lot can get pretty full.
      Moving north to Clearwater Beach, our favorite is Frenchy's Rockaway Grill at Mandalay and Rockaway.  From the roundabout and Pier 60, just walk 10 minutes or less up Mandalay and you will see in on the left, tucked behind small, shaded park area.  It will take a little longer, but you can also walk up the beach to get to Frenchy's, they are right on the sand.  Parking is available nearby, but demand can be high, so walking is your best option when possible.  Frenchy keeps things fresh with a revolving menu of monthly specials, so every month there is a special appetizer, entree, drink and dessert.  They keep a great atmosphere here with a view of the beach and the Gulf of Mexico.  The food is good, sometimes incredible, and the drinks are acceptably stiff.  This is a great place to just wander in off the beach and grab lunch or dinner and maybe a couple drinks.  Somehow amid the bustle, it maintains a family-friendly atmosphere, and the kitchen never falters, despite the throngs of tourists that line up at the hostess stand during high season.  The Rockaway is a place where you should not be afraid if there's a wait to eat.  If they tell you it will be 30 minutes, it will probably be more like 20, sometimes less if you're lucky, so don't go somewhere else just because they look busy.  This is a well-oiled machine, let them do their thing.  I should touch on the other Frenchy's locations in the area, because they are not all created equal.  Within a couple blocks of the Rockaway and on the other side of Mandalay, you might be tempted to try Frenchy's Original Café.  Do not give in to this temptation.  We have only tried it twice, but two times in a row the food, the drinks and the service were sub-par.  I really like Frenchy's restaurants overall, but if his chain has a weak link, this is it.  Further south on CWB, Frenchy's South Beach Café is about on par with Frenchy's Rockaway as far as food, service, drinks and beachfront view, just be aware that the crowd here can be a little younger and they don't all hold their liquor well.  It might not get rowdy, but it sure can get loud.  This isn't a deal-breaker for a lot of people, just set your expectations accordingly or go a little earlier in the day.
   Lastly, I'll mention Crabby Bill's, right on the roundabout across from Pier 60.  Like Frenchy's they will get very busy at times, but this is another restaurant where you should not let it put you off.  They know how to keep service moving, and you probably won't have to wait as long as the hostess tells you.  We've only been a couple times but found the experience enjoyable.  This is a very "American seafood" style restaurant, and in keeping with that theme, they do fry a lot of things.  If this is your cup of tea, then you may want to start here.
     Here's a video of Crabby Bill's from across the street.

Things to Do

     Beaches abound in this area, and you really can't find a bad one without driving off the island.  Around here, if there's sand, you should try it out.  As for other things to do, the majority are centered at the roundabout.  During the day you may want to rent a jet ski, go parasailing, or take a boat tour around the area.  Chances are that any watersport you've ever seen in a movie about a beach is available for hire from the docks around Crabby Bill's, next to the roundabout on CWB.  If for some reason you get bored with the selection of local beaches, I suggest you jump in a car an head south.  
You can easily get to Belleair Shore, Indian Rocks, Redington Beach, and Madeira Beach.  Just over the causeway from Madeira is Treasure Island and another causeway more will take you to St. Pete's Beach.  Consider all of these to be within easy driving distance of Clearwater Beach and try them all out, they all have great swimming and public access.  If you're staying in the CWB/north Sand Key area, I should let you know that Treasure Island and St. Pete's Beach will take a little driving to get to.  It looks close on the map, but you will only be able to do 20 to 35 mph and there are lots of stoplights and pedestrian crossings.  If you venture that far south, go early and make a day, or at least a half-day of it.  Belleair Shores through Madeira are all relatively close, so you won't lose a lot of time if you hop around between them.  

     If you're not familiar with the routine, find yourself a beach checklist online somewhere (or use the one I linked for you) and print it out to help inform your packing. Even if you're just hanging out in front of your hotel, it can be a real pain in the neck to have to walk back and forth to get something critical from your room.  If you are exploring further out, you will want to make sure all the essentials like water, sunblock and towels are with you in the car.  All of Pinellas County is inhabited, and these things will be available for purchase pretty much wherever you go, it's not like you're trekking across the Sahara, but it can be very inconvenient and costly to leave things at home or in the hotel room.  A little planning can save a lot of heartache later.

 

     The sun recedes and beachgoers move inland after sunset.  Many will go home and bathe or change clothes after a day at the beach, but Florida has no laws mandating such behavior, so do as you will.  Most of the bars, restaurants, souvenier shops, and outdoor entertainment are centered on the south end of Clearwater Beach and you can take your time walking from end to end of the strip, no car needed.  Everything you want to see at night is between Frenchy's Rockaway on the north end, and Frenchy's South Beach on the south end.  
According to Google Maps, it's about 1.3 miles from one to the other and should take you 19 minutes to walk straight through, but I'd recommend you take a lot more time than that.  At Pier 60, in the heart of it all, you can enjoy outdoor performers who do anything from vaudeville comedy routines to circus acrobatics with fire.  Take a little cash in case you feel like tipping, and take the kids.  Spider-Man and other superheros are known to frequent the park at Pier 60 and will even pose for a picture with you.  On the actual pier, as you walk out you will encounter all manner of souvenier handicraft known to man, including painted feathers, carved shells, and beaded jewelry, just to name a few.  In the snack stand at the head of Pier 60 is a public restroom and lockers where you can shut up your valuables.

Pro Tips

     Parkmobile:  If you think you will be driving around the area a lot, especially if you think you will drive into St. Petersberg at all, or if you will be parking on the street around CWB, get the Parkmobile app on your smartphone.  You pay by phone with your credit card, and if you want to extend your parking time, there's no need to go back to your car, it will send you a reminder and you can choose to extend your time at the press of a button.  Click here for more info about the app, and a map of where you are likely to use it to pay for parking. 
     Groceries:  Just across the causeway from Clearwater Beach and 4 or 5 blocks into the city of Clearwater, you will find 2 grocery stores next to each other:  Nature's Food Patch, and Save-A-Lot.  The two stores are polar opposites, one for the health-conscious, and the other for the budget-conscious.  In all fairness, the Food Patch is not nearly as expensive as some of the national health food markets you may have been to.  Either way, groceries are scarce on the islands, and your food will mostly be found in restaurants, so do your body and your wallet a big favor and make a trip over the causeway to buy groceries.  If you forgot your picnic basket, the Food Patch even offers hand-made African baskets that would be perfect for a day at the beach and to take home as a memento.  Fruit will keep fresh on the table at your hotel room, and other snacks and drinks will store in the mini-fridge.  A quick grocery run will be well worth your time, and these shops are very near to where all the beachy action is.

  

Thanks!

     I'm sure I haven't covered everything, but I've tried to make this a good overview of what you can expect in this small piece of Pinellas County.  There are so many things to do and places to see, just in the Bay Area, that it would take a lifetime to review it all.  I hope this quick guide helps you out if you're planning to come check out the area.

     If there's anything I missed, any more questions you have, or anything you feel I got wrong, please drop me a line in the Comments Section below and I'll get back to you.

     Thanks so much for reading!