Clearwater Beach, Florida

Overview

      When people talk about Clearwater Beach (CWB), they refer to an island in the Gulf of Mexico that lies just west of Clearwater, Florida.  Accessible by two different causeways or by boat, Clearwater Beach is one of the most popular tourist attractions in Pinellas County.  The main causeway ends at a roundabout surrounded by tourist attractions, such as parasailing, boat tours and Pier 60.  CWB is an active place, with a constant buzz of locals and tourists passing up and down Mandalay Avenue. This main strip runs the length of the island, connecting restaurants, shops, hotels, and beaches.  If you're outgoing, or an avid people watcher, then this is the place for you.
     If you take South Gulfview Boulevard to the south and follow it around, you will cross the other causeway which takes you over to Sand Key.  Sand Key at its north end has much of the energy and tourism of CWB, in fact most consider this just sort of "Clearwater Beach Part II", but in my opinion it's generally less crowded than CWB.  As you move south down Sand Key, you encounter other beaches and townships, from Belleair Shores to Madeira Beach.  Consider all these beaches to be at your fingertips at this point, as they are just a short drive from each other. 

Where to Stay

     Where you stay depends on your budget and your taste.  If you like lots of people, white sand beaches, and a poppin' atmosphere that may party on into the night, then I would recommend one of the many hotels right on Clearwater Beach.  The ubiquitous Hilton would be a good option, as it is right next to Pier 60, has waterfront and beach access to the west, and faces Mandalay Avenue to the east.  As you can see from the video, even in early December, the sun is shining and park improvements march ahead in preparation for the coming tourist season.

 

     If you want the same "white sugar" beaches that you would find on Clearwater Beach, but perhaps without quite so much of the unique flavor of Clearwater, the resorts on the north side of Sand Key are well situated.  While you won't have as many options for restaurants and bars beyond the hotels and resorts there, you won't have quite the crowd either, and the crowd that is there tends to be a little quieter (think "picnic at the beach with a couple small children making sand castles").  Sand Key Park is right here, and it's a great place to catch a soak.

 

Eats    

Columbia's waterfront view.

     If you do get to Sand Key, go hungry and make a stop at Columbia Restaurant (click the link for more info), as this is the best place to eat for miles around.  If you like Latin food, you'll adore this place.  We have been several times and they have never failed to stun us.  As sort of "new locals" to the area, this is one of the places we take visiting friends and family if we want to leave them with a good impression of the area.  The waterfront dining in the rear of the building will wow you with a miles-wide view of Belleair across the bay, while the impeccable staff astounds you with Columbia's take on dishes like paella, coca de langosta, "el cubano completo", and several ways to eat the local grouper.  See the PDF of their menu for yourself here.This is one of those rarest of restaurants where you can walk in feeling kind of blue and you will still probably leave on cloud 9.  Do save room for the key lime pie, it's the best in Florida and one of the very few that is all natural, without preservatives or artificial colors.  This is a family-owned restaurant that has been in business for 110 years, and once you eat there you will know why I believe they'll be around for at least that much longer.  Out of all the restaurants we have tried in this area, Columbia takes the grand prize.  Dine a little early (5 to 6 pm) if you want to get a parking spot, or consider using the valet service if you choose to dine later, as the lot can get pretty full.
      Moving north to Clearwater Beach, our favorite is Frenchy's Rockaway Grill at Mandalay and Rockaway.  From the roundabout and Pier 60, just walk 10 minutes or less up Mandalay and you will see in on the left, tucked behind small, shaded park area.  It will take a little longer, but you can also walk up the beach to get to Frenchy's, they are right on the sand.  Parking is available nearby, but demand can be high, so walking is your best option when possible.  Frenchy keeps things fresh with a revolving menu of monthly specials, so every month there is a special appetizer, entree, drink and dessert.  They keep a great atmosphere here with a view of the beach and the Gulf of Mexico.  The food is good, sometimes incredible, and the drinks are acceptably stiff.  This is a great place to just wander in off the beach and grab lunch or dinner and maybe a couple drinks.  Somehow amid the bustle, it maintains a family-friendly atmosphere, and the kitchen never falters, despite the throngs of tourists that line up at the hostess stand during high season.  The Rockaway is a place where you should not be afraid if there's a wait to eat.  If they tell you it will be 30 minutes, it will probably be more like 20, sometimes less if you're lucky, so don't go somewhere else just because they look busy.  This is a well-oiled machine, let them do their thing.  I should touch on the other Frenchy's locations in the area, because they are not all created equal.  Within a couple blocks of the Rockaway and on the other side of Mandalay, you might be tempted to try Frenchy's Original Café.  Do not give in to this temptation.  We have only tried it twice, but two times in a row the food, the drinks and the service were sub-par.  I really like Frenchy's restaurants overall, but if his chain has a weak link, this is it.  Further south on CWB, Frenchy's South Beach Café is about on par with Frenchy's Rockaway as far as food, service, drinks and beachfront view, just be aware that the crowd here can be a little younger and they don't all hold their liquor well.  It might not get rowdy, but it sure can get loud.  This isn't a deal-breaker for a lot of people, just set your expectations accordingly or go a little earlier in the day.
   Lastly, I'll mention Crabby Bill's, right on the roundabout across from Pier 60.  Like Frenchy's they will get very busy at times, but this is another restaurant where you should not let it put you off.  They know how to keep service moving, and you probably won't have to wait as long as the hostess tells you.  We've only been a couple times but found the experience enjoyable.  This is a very "American seafood" style restaurant, and in keeping with that theme, they do fry a lot of things.  If this is your cup of tea, then you may want to start here.
     Here's a video of Crabby Bill's from across the street.

Things to Do

     Beaches abound in this area, and you really can't find a bad one without driving off the island.  Around here, if there's sand, you should try it out.  As for other things to do, the majority are centered at the roundabout.  During the day you may want to rent a jet ski, go parasailing, or take a boat tour around the area.  Chances are that any watersport you've ever seen in a movie about a beach is available for hire from the docks around Crabby Bill's, next to the roundabout on CWB.  If for some reason you get bored with the selection of local beaches, I suggest you jump in a car an head south.  
You can easily get to Belleair Shore, Indian Rocks, Redington Beach, and Madeira Beach.  Just over the causeway from Madeira is Treasure Island and another causeway more will take you to St. Pete's Beach.  Consider all of these to be within easy driving distance of Clearwater Beach and try them all out, they all have great swimming and public access.  If you're staying in the CWB/north Sand Key area, I should let you know that Treasure Island and St. Pete's Beach will take a little driving to get to.  It looks close on the map, but you will only be able to do 20 to 35 mph and there are lots of stoplights and pedestrian crossings.  If you venture that far south, go early and make a day, or at least a half-day of it.  Belleair Shores through Madeira are all relatively close, so you won't lose a lot of time if you hop around between them.  

     If you're not familiar with the routine, find yourself a beach checklist online somewhere (or use the one I linked for you) and print it out to help inform your packing. Even if you're just hanging out in front of your hotel, it can be a real pain in the neck to have to walk back and forth to get something critical from your room.  If you are exploring further out, you will want to make sure all the essentials like water, sunblock and towels are with you in the car.  All of Pinellas County is inhabited, and these things will be available for purchase pretty much wherever you go, it's not like you're trekking across the Sahara, but it can be very inconvenient and costly to leave things at home or in the hotel room.  A little planning can save a lot of heartache later.

 

     The sun recedes and beachgoers move inland after sunset.  Many will go home and bathe or change clothes after a day at the beach, but Florida has no laws mandating such behavior, so do as you will.  Most of the bars, restaurants, souvenier shops, and outdoor entertainment are centered on the south end of Clearwater Beach and you can take your time walking from end to end of the strip, no car needed.  Everything you want to see at night is between Frenchy's Rockaway on the north end, and Frenchy's South Beach on the south end.  
According to Google Maps, it's about 1.3 miles from one to the other and should take you 19 minutes to walk straight through, but I'd recommend you take a lot more time than that.  At Pier 60, in the heart of it all, you can enjoy outdoor performers who do anything from vaudeville comedy routines to circus acrobatics with fire.  Take a little cash in case you feel like tipping, and take the kids.  Spider-Man and other superheros are known to frequent the park at Pier 60 and will even pose for a picture with you.  On the actual pier, as you walk out you will encounter all manner of souvenier handicraft known to man, including painted feathers, carved shells, and beaded jewelry, just to name a few.  In the snack stand at the head of Pier 60 is a public restroom and lockers where you can shut up your valuables.

Pro Tips

     Parkmobile:  If you think you will be driving around the area a lot, especially if you think you will drive into St. Petersberg at all, or if you will be parking on the street around CWB, get the Parkmobile app on your smartphone.  You pay by phone with your credit card, and if you want to extend your parking time, there's no need to go back to your car, it will send you a reminder and you can choose to extend your time at the press of a button.  Click here for more info about the app, and a map of where you are likely to use it to pay for parking. 
     Groceries:  Just across the causeway from Clearwater Beach and 4 or 5 blocks into the city of Clearwater, you will find 2 grocery stores next to each other:  Nature's Food Patch, and Save-A-Lot.  The two stores are polar opposites, one for the health-conscious, and the other for the budget-conscious.  In all fairness, the Food Patch is not nearly as expensive as some of the national health food markets you may have been to.  Either way, groceries are scarce on the islands, and your food will mostly be found in restaurants, so do your body and your wallet a big favor and make a trip over the causeway to buy groceries.  If you forgot your picnic basket, the Food Patch even offers hand-made African baskets that would be perfect for a day at the beach and to take home as a memento.  Fruit will keep fresh on the table at your hotel room, and other snacks and drinks will store in the mini-fridge.  A quick grocery run will be well worth your time, and these shops are very near to where all the beachy action is.

  

Thanks!

     I'm sure I haven't covered everything, but I've tried to make this a good overview of what you can expect in this small piece of Pinellas County.  There are so many things to do and places to see, just in the Bay Area, that it would take a lifetime to review it all.  I hope this quick guide helps you out if you're planning to come check out the area.

     If there's anything I missed, any more questions you have, or anything you feel I got wrong, please drop me a line in the Comments Section below and I'll get back to you.

     Thanks so much for reading!